I’m an old “analog” guy that has worked in the chip industry for decades. My garage time is spent fixing stuff, and building other stuff. Some projects are electronics related, while other bits are machine (i.e. mill, lathe, weld) related.
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lensprojects 
I have a V10-P and ant to upgrade the push button switch array. I see the switches on your machine have been fix already. I would appreciate any information you can provide about your conversion. My machine is 115 V, 60 Hz, single phase.
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Hi Jim – I don’t think my wiring will be applicable to your case because I’m using a VFD and 3-phase motor. All the controls you see in the box are low voltage controls that go to the VFD.
There is a switch conversion discussed on the Yahoo Maximat group. A diagram is posted in the files section by a gentleman named Andy Nobbs.
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Yes your nice conversion won’t work for me now, but thanks for taking the time to reply. I have found Andy Nobbs info on the Yahoo site and it should prove to be helpful.
JM
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I have a Bose L1 model 1 , the base is not working , can you repair this base ?
please contact me if is possible…
Thanks so much
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Hi, I have a Bose L1 model 1 System which doesn’t power up. Would you be able to have a look at it for us? Thanks.
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Where are you located? I’m in SF Bay area. It’s not practical to ship a base I think.
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Hi Lens42, i have same problem with my L1, can you photo email me the rectifier you replaced, as i think its the same proble, thanks, jim.
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Hi there Len,
I totally enjoyed reading about your Philips 212 Turntable upgrade, that was the first turntable that I ever owned and I have been planning to build a Phono Listening setup using a Kenwood KA-3500 amp I have and a Philips 212 Turntable. I have been able to pick up 2 Philips 212 turntables (1 to restore and 1 for any parts I may need) however, I didn’t need any steal any parts from the donor turntable, so I was thinking of using it and doing the Arduino conversion on it. I see that you had a total of 5 controller boards made and wondered if you would be willing to sell me one of them if available? I’m sure I will have questions to pick your brain with along the way also. Thank You Sir.
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Hi Johnie – Yes. I still have boards. I can send you one for $10. I still have parts so, if you want, I can stuff one, minus the Arduino, for another $40. If you’re in the US and don’t mind slow mail, I’ll take care of the postage. I just have to figure out how we can contact. I don’t want to broadcast my phone or email here. I’m trying to figure out how to put a private mail link in a WordPress blog.
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Hi Len, great to hear back from you, and great news that you have extra boards for the 212 project, and I will certainly take you up on the offer to stuff the board for the additional payment. I am in Los Angeles, You can contact me at munchkin17@gmail.com and we will pick up the conversation from there. Once again, great to hear back from you and we’ll speak soon. Johnie
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Hi Len,
I am looking to build a Touch DRO setup with glass scales for my old Bridgeport and I see you have done that. Looking at the schematics you published a few years ago, I see your setup did not use the TI Launchpad. How did you flash the MSP430? Can you flash it via the bluetooth connection from a laptop?
Best Regards,
Kenny Logsdon
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Hi Kenny – I flashed MSP430 in a socketed Launchpad board and transferred it my board.
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Hi, Len — Nice piece on the Philips 212. I have one from 1971 with two of the issues you talked about: The on-off switch sticks, and the turntable plays at 45 only, with both the 33 and 45 lights going at the same time. The bulbs themselves work fine, and were replaced new around 1999. The turntable has not been used since. Would you like to have it free so you can take those scarce bulbs and other parts from it? I’m in Monterey, and you mentioned you live in the Bay Area, so I could bring it to you. Let me know if you’re interested. Thanks! Jeffrey
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Hi Jeff – I would be thrilled to get a “donor” 212. I’ve sent a few boards to people, but I can’t send them fully built boards because some parts have to come off the TT. If I had a donor, I could send a complete board first and have them send back the old one when they do the swap. I haven’t figured out how to have private conversations on WordPress, but as a workaround you could send me your email in a comment that I will NOT approve so it’s not made public, then I’ll contact you directly. Thanks.
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how can we talk to you about L1 repair
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Hi Lorin – I will email you. – Len
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Hello:
I have a Bose L1 Model 1 with dirty Pots. I can’t get to them from the top with Deoxit. Is disassembly required, removing the bottom cover?
Then flip over the circuit board for cleaning. Anyway of getting to them from the top?
Thanks Scott
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Hi Scott – The only way I know to get inside is through the bottom and the war of 1000 screws.
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Hi Len. I have a pair of Bose L1 Model 1 “Classics” and one of the bases won’t power up. Your “tutorial” on repair is very helpful. I did discover a shorted rectifier diode in the Aux power supply, which I replaced. But, still not functioning. What is the correct voltage level on the output of the filter module? I am getting a very high DC voltage (>300V).
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Hi Mark – 300V sounds about right. I think what you are getting at the AUX supply input is correct. I assume you checked ALL the rectifiers. Next would be to check the electrolytic capacitors. I don’t think it’s likely, but I did have one unit with an open winding in the transformer. You can check transformer winding resistances in-circuit. All should be a few Ohms. If any are 100s of Ohms or more, that would be bad. Also check if the 300V from the filter module, is making it all the way to the Aux supply input.
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Hello Len, I have a Mcintosh MC275 but it don´t have the output transformer “M-216-B”. I need to find it or do it. Can you help me? Thank you!
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Sorry. I’ve repaired several McIntosh amps as a hobby (l’m not a pro tech) but I have no info or sources for transformers.
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Hi Len,
I just recently found your writeup describing the custom enclosure you built for a Tormach PCNC770 mill.
I recently acquired a PCNC770 from it’s original owner who had also built a custom enclosure from 8020 material. Although the enclosure he built is nicely done, it sits flush with the front of the Tormach chip pan and therefore will not allow a vise to clear the doors when the table is in the full negative Y direction.
After living with this enclosure “deficiency” for about a year, I decided it was time to fix the problem. Your documentation was very helpful in planning the modifications I want to make.
Just one question for you. After living with your custom Tormach enclosure, is there anything you would have done different or additional?
Thanks.
Chuck
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Hi Chuck – I’m still pretty happy with the enclosure, but I don’t use flood. If I did, I think I would need to pay more attention to gaps at the sliding doors and the back. Also, during heavier cuts, the Lexan panels rattle in the tracks. I been meaning to try and stop that with cork, or leaf springs, or thicker panels, or something, but I guess it hasn’t been bad enough to make me bother. One idea I had was to add some diagonal bracing on the top to mount lights and also maybe reduce rattling. Other that that it’s been fine.
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Hi Len,
I have just purchased a Emco MaxiMat V10-P similar to yours and looking at installing DRO, having looked at your project upgrade was awesome.
Is there any chance I can get some form of sketch with mounting dimensions on your system, such as heights, lengths of mag strip, etc
Thanks in advance.
Steve
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Hi Steve – Unfortunately, I cut to fit, so I have no measurements. If you like, I can make some (ruler accuracy) measurements, if you have specific numbers you want. I cut the channels in the aluminum bars to fit eBay mag tape, so that will likely be different than what you’d get now.
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Are you still suppling the arduino based repair kits for the Philips 212? I just picked one up…looks super cool, but archaic electronically.
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Yes. I emailed you.
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I sent a PM on IndustryArena for you but this seems like a way better place to ask about a MP11 probe. I’m trying to follow your instructions to wire a really nice looking MP11 with cable to my 770 S3. Unfortunately, the best I can get is the power light on the MP11 to be on. It does go off on touch, but PathPilot isn’t registering a touch. Nor is the “touch the probe to confirm” working in either the Passive or Active mode. The accessory light stays on in PP unless I unplug the probe. My old passive Wildhorse probe still works normally. I’ve checked the 12v and 5v voltages at the Tormach accessory plug, and the 12v is showing 11 along with the 5v (which isn’t used) which is showing 4 . Do you have any idea other than the probe being bad why I’m not getting any touch registered even though the lights on the probe say it should be? Also, could you take a look at your wiring diagram for the MP11, your pin numbers don’t match the order in the MP11 manual. I’m pretty sure I figured it out anyway but it doesn’t hurt to double check. I’m really concerned at this point that the probe itself doesn’t work maybe the SSR output is bad… Do you have any help or ideas I can try? Or should I try to send this probe back? My email’s attached.
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