I’m an old “analog” guy that has worked in the chip industry around Silicon Valley for decades. My garage time is spent fixing stuff, and building other stuff. Some projects are electronics related, while other bits are machine (i.e. mill, lathe, weld) related.
-
Subscribe
Subscribed
Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
lensprojects 
I have a V10-P and ant to upgrade the push button switch array. I see the switches on your machine have been fix already. I would appreciate any information you can provide about your conversion. My machine is 115 V, 60 Hz, single phase.
LikeLike
Hi Jim – I don’t think my wiring will be applicable to your case because I’m using a VFD and 3-phase motor. All the controls you see in the box are low voltage controls that go to the VFD.
There is a switch conversion discussed on the Yahoo Maximat group. A diagram is posted in the files section by a gentleman named Andy Nobbs.
LikeLike
Yes your nice conversion won’t work for me now, but thanks for taking the time to reply. I have found Andy Nobbs info on the Yahoo site and it should prove to be helpful.
JM
LikeLike
I have a Bose L1 model 1 , the base is not working , can you repair this base ?
please contact me if is possible…
Thanks so much
LikeLike
Hi, I have a Bose L1 model 1 System which doesn’t power up. Would you be able to have a look at it for us? Thanks.
LikeLike
Where are you located? I’m in SF Bay area. It’s not practical to ship a base I think.
LikeLike
Hi Lens42, i have same problem with my L1, can you photo email me the rectifier you replaced, as i think its the same proble, thanks, jim.
LikeLike
Hi there Len,
I totally enjoyed reading about your Philips 212 Turntable upgrade, that was the first turntable that I ever owned and I have been planning to build a Phono Listening setup using a Kenwood KA-3500 amp I have and a Philips 212 Turntable. I have been able to pick up 2 Philips 212 turntables (1 to restore and 1 for any parts I may need) however, I didn’t need any steal any parts from the donor turntable, so I was thinking of using it and doing the Arduino conversion on it. I see that you had a total of 5 controller boards made and wondered if you would be willing to sell me one of them if available? I’m sure I will have questions to pick your brain with along the way also. Thank You Sir.
LikeLike
Hi Johnie – Yes. I still have boards. I can send you one for $10. I still have parts so, if you want, I can stuff one, minus the Arduino, for another $40. If you’re in the US and don’t mind slow mail, I’ll take care of the postage. I just have to figure out how we can contact. I don’t want to broadcast my phone or email here. I’m trying to figure out how to put a private mail link in a WordPress blog.
LikeLike
Hi Len, great to hear back from you, and great news that you have extra boards for the 212 project, and I will certainly take you up on the offer to stuff the board for the additional payment. I am in Los Angeles, You can contact me at munchkin17@gmail.com and we will pick up the conversation from there. Once again, great to hear back from you and we’ll speak soon. Johnie
LikeLike
Hi Len,
I am looking to build a Touch DRO setup with glass scales for my old Bridgeport and I see you have done that. Looking at the schematics you published a few years ago, I see your setup did not use the TI Launchpad. How did you flash the MSP430? Can you flash it via the bluetooth connection from a laptop?
Best Regards,
Kenny Logsdon
LikeLike
Hi Kenny – I flashed MSP430 in a socketed Launchpad board and transferred it my board.
LikeLike
Hi, Len — Nice piece on the Philips 212. I have one from 1971 with two of the issues you talked about: The on-off switch sticks, and the turntable plays at 45 only, with both the 33 and 45 lights going at the same time. The bulbs themselves work fine, and were replaced new around 1999. The turntable has not been used since. Would you like to have it free so you can take those scarce bulbs and other parts from it? I’m in Monterey, and you mentioned you live in the Bay Area, so I could bring it to you. Let me know if you’re interested. Thanks! Jeffrey
LikeLike
Hi Jeff – I would be thrilled to get a “donor” 212. I’ve sent a few boards to people, but I can’t send them fully built boards because some parts have to come off the TT. If I had a donor, I could send a complete board first and have them send back the old one when they do the swap. I haven’t figured out how to have private conversations on WordPress, but as a workaround you could send me your email in a comment that I will NOT approve so it’s not made public, then I’ll contact you directly. Thanks.
LikeLike
Hi Jeff. A friend of yours, Marc, who resides here in Tampa, Fl. gave me your name to see if you might be able to provide an electronic part I can’t seem to find anywhere here in the greater St Petersburg area.
The part is a Denon Pilot Lamp-Green (color), PN:3930047033. The item is fo a Denon turntable, Model
DP 60L
Thank You
Bob
Rivrosibob@verizon.net
LikeLike
Hi Len. I just bought a Bose L1 from someone and didn’t realize the bottom array (amp 2?) wasn’t working. I happen to live in San Jose… any chance you’d be willing to attempt a repair for some money?
LikeLike
how can we talk to you about L1 repair
LikeLike
Hi Lorin – I will email you. – Len
LikeLike
Hello:
I have a Bose L1 Model 1 with dirty Pots. I can’t get to them from the top with Deoxit. Is disassembly required, removing the bottom cover?
Then flip over the circuit board for cleaning. Anyway of getting to them from the top?
Thanks Scott
LikeLike
Hi Scott – The only way I know to get inside is through the bottom and the war of 1000 screws.
LikeLike
Hi Len. I have a pair of Bose L1 Model 1 “Classics” and one of the bases won’t power up. Your “tutorial” on repair is very helpful. I did discover a shorted rectifier diode in the Aux power supply, which I replaced. But, still not functioning. What is the correct voltage level on the output of the filter module? I am getting a very high DC voltage (>300V).
LikeLike
Hi Mark – 300V sounds about right. I think what you are getting at the AUX supply input is correct. I assume you checked ALL the rectifiers. Next would be to check the electrolytic capacitors. I don’t think it’s likely, but I did have one unit with an open winding in the transformer. You can check transformer winding resistances in-circuit. All should be a few Ohms. If any are 100s of Ohms or more, that would be bad. Also check if the 300V from the filter module, is making it all the way to the Aux supply input.
LikeLike
Hello Len, I have a Mcintosh MC275 but it don´t have the output transformer “M-216-B”. I need to find it or do it. Can you help me? Thank you!
LikeLike
Sorry. I’ve repaired several McIntosh amps as a hobby (l’m not a pro tech) but I have no info or sources for transformers.
LikeLike
Hi Len,
I just recently found your writeup describing the custom enclosure you built for a Tormach PCNC770 mill.
I recently acquired a PCNC770 from it’s original owner who had also built a custom enclosure from 8020 material. Although the enclosure he built is nicely done, it sits flush with the front of the Tormach chip pan and therefore will not allow a vise to clear the doors when the table is in the full negative Y direction.
After living with this enclosure “deficiency” for about a year, I decided it was time to fix the problem. Your documentation was very helpful in planning the modifications I want to make.
Just one question for you. After living with your custom Tormach enclosure, is there anything you would have done different or additional?
Thanks.
Chuck
LikeLike
Hi Chuck – I’m still pretty happy with the enclosure, but I don’t use flood. If I did, I think I would need to pay more attention to gaps at the sliding doors and the back. Also, during heavier cuts, the Lexan panels rattle in the tracks. I been meaning to try and stop that with cork, or leaf springs, or thicker panels, or something, but I guess it hasn’t been bad enough to make me bother. One idea I had was to add some diagonal bracing on the top to mount lights and also maybe reduce rattling. Other that that it’s been fine.
LikeLike
Hi Len,
I have just purchased a Emco MaxiMat V10-P similar to yours and looking at installing DRO, having looked at your project upgrade was awesome.
Is there any chance I can get some form of sketch with mounting dimensions on your system, such as heights, lengths of mag strip, etc
Thanks in advance.
Steve
LikeLike
Hi Steve – Unfortunately, I cut to fit, so I have no measurements. If you like, I can make some (ruler accuracy) measurements, if you have specific numbers you want. I cut the channels in the aluminum bars to fit eBay mag tape, so that will likely be different than what you’d get now.
LikeLike
Hello there,
I have an L1 that needs repair as well. I live in the bay area so I can drop off anytime. Please email me at your earliest convenience.
LikeLike
Thanks for your excellent post on the BOSE PS-1 / L1 tower amp. The schematics and your info are invaluable. I’m my case I have one amp module dead. One or more Q501 IRF840 have gone up in smoke. I notice that they have series fuses? F501etc. Any idea what the replacement part would be?
LikeLike
Hello – I was wondering if the Bose L1 array (first gen) can be powered by the Bose PowerShare PS602 power amplifier or similar? Thx! Mark
LikeLike
Are you still suppling the arduino based repair kits for the Philips 212? I just picked one up…looks super cool, but archaic electronically.
LikeLike
Yes. I emailed you.
LikeLike
Hi, I have a:
Bose L1 Model 1 Power Stand portable speaker system
S/N: 042829z12630164ac
The power turns on but no sound but a light buzzing. We tried replacing the cords to no avail. Can you help? I’m in SFBay area
LikeLike
Hi I have a:
Bose L1 Model 1 Power Stand portable speaker system
S/N: 042829z12630164ac
The power comes on but no sound but a soft buzz. We tried replacing the cords to no avail. Can you help? I’m in SFBay area.
LikeLike
I sent a PM on IndustryArena for you but this seems like a way better place to ask about a MP11 probe. I’m trying to follow your instructions to wire a really nice looking MP11 with cable to my 770 S3. Unfortunately, the best I can get is the power light on the MP11 to be on. It does go off on touch, but PathPilot isn’t registering a touch. Nor is the “touch the probe to confirm” working in either the Passive or Active mode. The accessory light stays on in PP unless I unplug the probe. My old passive Wildhorse probe still works normally. I’ve checked the 12v and 5v voltages at the Tormach accessory plug, and the 12v is showing 11 along with the 5v (which isn’t used) which is showing 4 . Do you have any idea other than the probe being bad why I’m not getting any touch registered even though the lights on the probe say it should be? Also, could you take a look at your wiring diagram for the MP11, your pin numbers don’t match the order in the MP11 manual. I’m pretty sure I figured it out anyway but it doesn’t hurt to double check. I’m really concerned at this point that the probe itself doesn’t work maybe the SSR output is bad… Do you have any help or ideas I can try? Or should I try to send this probe back? My email’s attached.
LikeLike
Hi Len, I have 2 bose L1 Model 1 base units that died after a recent power company planned outage. Both made loud pops when turning on after power was restored to the house. One of them still has sound coming from the bottom tower, but that’s it. Nothing from the other towers or subs at all. The power LED turns from green to orange when you power on the units.
Are you still repairing these and what is the cost typically if so? I’m in Fallbrook, north san diego county fyi.
thanks, Kevin
LikeLike
Hello,My name is Peter Epp and I own a Bose L1 Model 1. In a recent move the handle on the case for the base was broken. Do you happen to have one or could you make one?
My cell is 970-629-5847 and my email is peter.epp1967 @ gmail.com.
LikeLike
Hello! I wrote a few years back asking if there was a practice amplifier application that would allow me to operate the L1 speaker arrays and “sub” with a different amplifier. Perhaps a rack mounted unit(s) or…? My 1st get units are working great but would love to try another approach with the speaker/amp combination. I’m not sure how to navigate this site to find a response from you and/or the community but I have been getting the occasional emails from Lensproject. I hope to hear back…thx!
Mark
LikeLike
*practicle
LikeLike
Hi Len,
Are you still able to repair Bose L1 Pro 16 power supplies? After an hour plus of hard use, the unit will shut off and display a red light. I am able to restart it and bring down the sub volume and will be good for the rest of the night. Willing to take the unit apart and send you what’s needed to complete the repair.
LikeLike
I have not worked on Pro 16s or 32s, Just the older L1 classic. Bose should still repair those, and I don’t think the prices are too crazy.
LikeLike
I am having the orange light issue on my older L1 and do not have tools to repair. I have taken the unit apart and can send you parts if it is fine with you. Could you please help? Thank you so much.
LikeLike
Hi Len,
I just acquired an Enco 100 series mill with the dahlander 2 speed motor. I want to power it with both speeds, similar to what you did. My motor has a 2:1 high: low ratio, so I’m hoping that allows an easier wiring. I’d like to use the original 7 position rotary switch to command the vfd, do you see that as being possible? Thank you for providing that original article, it’s been the most helpful info I’ve found on the 2 speed motor powered with vfd. Thank you!! Michael
LikeLike
Hi Michael – If the motor is 2:1, you could try powering only the high speed winding with the VFD and take a bit of torque loss at low RPM. That’s what I did on my Emco (not Enco) lathe per recommendation in a forum. For my hobby use, it still has plenty of power. That way you don’t need the contactor switching. Before building it all up, I’d jury rig up the VFD to the motor with taped joints or wire nuts and try it out at low RPM. I did that on my mill and found I could easily stop the spindle with my hand, so I knew I needed to power both windings. Re using the rotary switch, There is probably a way to get it to talk to the VFD, they are just contacts, but it will depend on how programmable the VFD is. VFD manuals can be pretty obtuse. If you have some electronics savvy, you could probably build up some logic to convert switch contacts to VFD control signals. You said 7 position switch, but my mill only had 5. What are the two extra rotary positions?
LikeLike
Hi Len,
There is an off position between the run positions: forward high-off-forward low-off-reverse low-off-reverse high. What about wiring to the low speed winding and running up to 80 or 90hz? I am not opposed to using the back gear or adjusting the step pulleys, either.
LikeLike
Michael – That might be possible. I remember there were several contacts on the drum switch. It depends on the VFD and how complex the modes and controls are. Sometimes the manuals can be pretty obtuse.
LikeLike